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How to Renovate a Home Starting from the Interior Design Project: The Complete Guide
How to Renovate a Home Starting from the Interior Design Project: The Complete Guide By Mattea, co-founder and Interior Architect — Restylit How do you renovate a home starting from the interior design project? You start from the final vision: how do you want to live in that space? And you work backwards to plan the works. First the definitive layout, then the plumbing and electrical, then the materials, then the finishes, and finally the furniture. The interior design project is not the last thing to do after the walls have already been knocked down — it's the first. It completely changes the order of decisions, the quality of the result and the final cost. In short: those who renovate starting from the interior design project spend on average 15-25% less than those who start works without a project, make fewer recoverable mistakes, get more precise quotes from contractors and end up with a result that actually resembles what they had in mind. What you'll find in this guide. The correct method for integrating the interior design project into the renovation, the exact order of decisions and works, the most common mistakes made by those who start from the works rather than the project, how much time and budget is needed for each phase, and how Restylit accompanies this process from start to delivery. If you're about to renovate and don't know where to begin, this guide is the right starting point. What an Interior Design Project Is and Why It Comes Before the Works The interior design project is the document that defines how a space will look once the renovation is complete. It's not just an aesthetic matter: it includes the definitive layout of the rooms, the position of the plumbing and electrical systems, the materials chosen for every surface, the technical specifications for the contractor, and a visual representation of the final result through photorealistic 3D renderings. Or at least, that's how it should be. The difference between a renovation done with an interior design project and one done without is substantial. Those who start without knowing exactly where they want to end up make one of the most frequent mistakes: having a vague idea can seem enough, but every intervention involves structural, technical and aesthetic decisions. If the project changes during the works, you have to stop, redo quotes, modify authorisations and, often, redo part of what's already been built. In practice: every decision made on site rather than at the drawing board costs more. Often much more. The Problem of the Wrong Order This is the point we most want to explain clearly, because it's where we see the greatest damage in the projects we follow. The wrong order — the one most people apply — is this: You call the contractor You start the structural works Halfway through the site you start choosing materials You discover problems that change your choices You buy the furniture at the end, without knowing exactly where it will go The result of this process is almost always the same: costs higher than expected, longer timelines, regrets about choices made in a rush, and a final space that works but doesn't excite. The right order is the opposite: You define how you want to live in the space You develop the interior design project with layout, materials, systems You get precise quotes from contractors (with a project in hand, offers are comparable line by line) You start the works already knowing exactly where all the systems, all the materials and all the furniture go Purchases are made before the works begin, not during The Process Phases: From Vision to Site (pay attention to this!) Phase 1 — Understanding What You Actually Want (not what you think you want) The first useful conversation in a renovation is not with the contractor. It's with yourself. Or, even better, with a professional who knows how to ask the right questions. Some concrete questions we always ask at the start of a Restylit project: How do people move through the home during a typical day? Where do they cook, eat, work, relax? These habits define the layout far more than any aesthetic preference. What isn't working right now? Is the kitchen too enclosed? Is the bathroom dark? Does the living room lack a work area? Identifying the real problems is the starting point of every good project. Which materials do you actually like and which ones tire you quickly? A colour that feels bold today can become exhausting in three years. Natural materials age well. The €15-per-metre laminate shows. What's the real budget, not the optimistic one? The optimistic budget is the one you have in mind before opening the walls. The real budget includes a 15-20% buffer for unexpected costs that materialise in almost every renovation. Phase 2 — Developing the Interior Design Project Before the Works The interior design project is developed on paper — or rather, on screen — before a single hammer touches a wall. It includes: The definitive layout. The furnished floor plan with the precise measurements of every room. Where the sofa goes, where the bed goes, where the desk goes. Every centimetre is defined before any work begins. The position of the systems. Every electrical socket, every light point, every water connection must be decided now. Moving a water connection after the floor has been laid costs three times more than deciding it at the design stage. Materials and finishes. Flooring, wall finishes, wall colours, taps, sanitaryware. Every choice is made while seeing how it relates to the others through the photorealistic 3D renderings. 3D renderings. The photorealistic visual representation of every room. Not an approximation — an image that shows exactly how the room will look with those materials, that light, those pieces of furniture. It allows you to see mistakes when correcting them costs nothing. The shopping list. The list of everything that needs to be purchased, with precise specifications and links to the products. Ordered before the works begin, not during. Phase 3 — Getting Comparable Quotes With a complete interior design project in hand, contractor quotes become comparable line by line, without surprises. Without a project, every contractor interprets the client's wishes in their own way and quotes are not comparable. A precise project makes it possible to plan the correct order of works, avoid material waste and get clearer offers from contractors. With a Restylit Essential or Advanced project, the client arrives at the contractor with executive technical drawings, precise material specifications and reference renderings. The contractor knows exactly what to do. The quote is precise. Surprises are drastically reduced. Phase 4 — Carrying Out the Works in the Correct Order The order of works in a full renovation is not arbitrary. Every phase must be carried out in sequence, because each phase prepares the next. Demolition. Everything that isn't staying is removed: partition walls, floors, wall finishes. The raw space is opened up. It's the most costly thing to delay — every modification after this phase costs double. In-wall systems. Electrical, plumbing, gas, heating. Everything that runs inside the walls must be done now, while the walls are still open. Changing it afterwards means opening everything back up. Masonry and plasterwork. The system trenches are closed, new partition walls are built, walls are plastered. The space takes on its defined form again. Flooring and wall finishes. The final floor is laid, bathroom and kitchen walls are tiled. The exact order depends on the technical solution chosen. Finishes. Painting, sanitaryware installation, kitchen fitting, doors and windows. Everything you see. Furniture. The furniture only comes in at the very end. Never before. Phase 5 — Handing Over the Brief to the Contractor This is one of the things that distinguishes a Restylit project from a generic consultation. In addition to the technical drawings, we produce an operational brief for the contractor: a document that explains the project, the design choices, the priorities and the materials, so that whoever carries out the works — even without having spoken directly with us — knows exactly what to do and why. It doesn't replace physical site supervision. But it reduces the margins for interpretation and therefore for execution errors. Summary: Correct Order of Decisions and Works Phase What happens When Common mistake 1. Vision Define how you want to live in the space Before everything Skipping it and going straight to works 2. Interior design project Layout, systems, materials, 3D renderings Before the works Doing it during or after 3. Quotes Request offers with project in hand After the project Asking for quotes without a project 4. Material orders Purchase flooring, tiles, sanitaryware Before works begin Ordering during the site 5. Demolition Open up the raw space First day on site Modifying the project after demolition 6. Systems Electrical, plumbing, gas, heating With walls open Relocating systems after the walls are closed 7. Masonry and plasterwork Close trenches, build partition walls After the systems Starting finishes before plasterwork 8. Flooring and wall finishes Lay the final floor After plasterwork Laying the floor before the systems 9. Finishes Painting, doors, sanitaryware, kitchen Towards the end Fitting the kitchen before the floor 10. Furniture Position the furniture Only at the very end Buying furniture before the layout is defined The Mistakes You Avoid by Starting from the Project These are the errors we see repeated in renovations done without a preliminary interior design project. Relocating systems once works have started. Deciding on an open site that the basin should go on the other side, that a socket needs adding, that the light should be in a different position. Every plumbing or electrical modification made during works costs double or triple what it would have cost in the project. Not starting works before all the important decisions have been made, and always requesting detailed quotes based on a precise project, are the first steps to avoiding costly problems. Ordering the wrong materials or in the wrong quantities. Tiles ordered short that bring the site to a standstill. Flooring chosen before seeing how it interacts with the light in the room. Bathroom marble that arrives in a slightly different shade from the sample. With a project and photorealistic renderings, these surprises are drastically reduced. Buying furniture before the definitive layout is finalised. The sofa that doesn't fit through the door. The kitchen that doesn't align with the plumbing connections. The bed that blocks the wardrobe door. These are mistakes that cost between €500 and €3,000 each, and they're avoided by deciding everything first. Not budgeting for unexpected costs. This isn't pessimism: it's realism. In almost every renovation that opens walls, hidden problems emerge — damp, installations not up to code, structures that require intervention. The 15-20% buffer is not optional. How Much Time the Project Takes Before the Works One of the objections we hear most often is: "If I wait for the project, I lose time before starting." The opposite is true. The time invested in the project is more than recovered during the works, because it reduces delays, variations during the build, and site downtime. Restylit Essential or Advanced project: approximately 60 days from when the material is received to delivery of the documents. A 100sqm apartment with a complex layout may require a few extra weeks. Renovation works: 4-12 weeks depending on the scale of the intervention. Total with project: 3-5 months. Total without project (with all the typical delays): 5-9 months, with a result that is often unsatisfying. The project doesn't lengthen the renovation. It brings it forward. The Restylit Method: How We Manage This Process At Restylit the interior design project unfolds in five steps. 1. Introductory call (free). Understanding the project, budget, expectations, floor plan. No commitment. 2. Material collection. The client sends the floor plan, photos of the spaces, visual inspiration. No physical site visit needed. 3. Project development. The internal team, coordinated by Mattea, develops the layout, materials and renderings. Everything defined before any work begins. 4. Presentation video call. The client sees the complete project, asks questions, requests changes. The rendering shows exactly how each room will look. 5. Delivery of documents. Photorealistic renderings, executive technical drawings, shopping list with purchasable links, brief for the contractor. Everything ready for the site. Essential vs Advanced: Which to Choose Essential — €33/sqm (minimum 100sqm) The format for those who have a trusted contractor and need a complete project to hand over. Includes 3 video calls, 3D renderings with 2 revision rounds, up to 4 executive technical drawings, shopping list. Delivered in approximately 60 days. Advanced — €55/sqm (minimum 100sqm) The format for complex renovations or for those who want the maximum level of detail. Includes 5 video calls, renderings with 3 revision rounds, up to 8 technical drawings, cost estimate, remote artistic direction. For those who don't want to leave anything to chance. Concrete example: 120sqm apartment with Restylit Advanced → €6,600 for a complete project that includes everything needed to start the works with confidence. The same project with a physical studio in London or another major European city: €10,000-24,000. If you're planning a renovation and want to understand how to integrate the interior design project into your process, book a free 15-minute call with the Restylit team. We start from your floor plan and figure out together where to begin. Discover the Essential and Advanced packages → FAQ What is an interior design project for a renovation? An interior design project for a renovation is the complete document that defines how the space will look once the works are finished. It includes the definitive layout with precise measurements, the position of all systems, the materials chosen for every surface, photorealistic 3D renderings of every room, and a shopping list with the specifications of every product to be purchased. It's the reference document for the contractor, which makes it possible to get precise and comparable quotes. When should the interior design project be done: before or after choosing the contractor? Before. The interior design project must be developed before contacting contractors, not after. With a complete project in hand, contractor quotes become comparable line by line. Without a project, every contractor interprets the client's wishes differently and quotes are not comparable. Many costly mistakes arise precisely from doing things in the wrong order. What's the difference between an interior design project and an architectural project? The architectural project deals with structural and regulatory aspects: modifications to load-bearing structures, planning applications, compliance with building regulations. The interior design project deals with how the space will be lived in: layout, materials, furniture, lighting, aesthetics. For a renovation involving structural modifications or planning applications, both are needed. For the interior design project that defines how the space will feel, you need an interior designer or an architect specialising in interiors. Is the interior design project tax deductible? If the professional is a registered architect and signs the planning applications connected to the works, their fee may fall within the 50% Renovation Bonus expenses in Italy. The fee of a non-registered interior designer is not directly deductible. Always check with your accountant for your specific situation. Can I renovate without an interior design project? Yes, but it almost always pays not to. Those who renovate without a project make decisions about materials during the works, often in a rush and without being able to see how they interact with each other. The result is almost always: higher costs for variations during the build, recoverable purchasing mistakes of between €1,500 and €4,000, and a final space that doesn't fully match what was imagined. How long does it take to have the interior design project ready? With Restylit Essential and Advanced: approximately 60 days from when the material is received to delivery of the documents. With a traditional physical studio: 2-6 months. The difference depends mainly on the timelines for site visits and coordination, which in the online model are much more streamlined. Restylit is an Italian interior design company, entirely online. We design residential spaces with photorealistic 3D renderings, shoppable lists and technical drawings for the contractor — across Italy and Europe. Over 500 completed projects, 4.8/5 average. 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Why the Space You Live in Changes You (Even When You Don't Notice)
Why the Space You Live in Changes You (Even When You Don't Notice) By Alberto, co-founder — Restylit Why does the home you live in affect your wellbeing? Because the physical environment acts directly on the nervous system, hormone levels and emotional regulation. It's not a matter of taste or aesthetics — it's physiology. Natural light changes cortisol and melatonin production. Visual order or disorder influences stress levels. The colour temperature of lighting affects mood. The space you come home to every evening is not neutral. It changes you, for better or worse, every single day. A Personal Story — That Might Sound Familiar Until a few years ago, I lived in a basement. Not a metaphor. An actual basement — poorly lit, furnished with whatever was available, with no project or intention behind it. A bed, a desk, an internet connection. Everything else seemed superfluous. I had no particular demands from the spaces I inhabited, and I didn't miss them. Then I met Mattea, my business partner, the architect. And something began to shift — not because she convinced me with technical arguments, but because being around her I started noticing things I'd never seen before. How I felt bad in certain spaces. How I felt good in others. How that difference wasn't random. I found the answer to what I was experiencing in an unexpected place: the writings of Carl Gustav Jung. Jung and the Home as a Second Skin Jung described the home as a second skin. The place where the social mask can finally come down. Where you stop being the colleague, the boss, the professional who always has it together. Where you simply go back to being yourself. It's a powerful image, and it's not just philosophy. Environmental psychology — a serious discipline with decades of research behind it — has demonstrated that domestic spaces measurably influence our psychophysical wellbeing. Research conducted at the University of Padua has shown significant correlations between environmental elements and physiological parameters, including variations in cortisol levels related to natural lighting and melatonin production in response to artificial circadian cycles. In other words: the wrong lightbulb in your bedroom isn't just aesthetically questionable. It's interfering with your sleep. How Space Acts on You — Concretely This is the part that struck me most when I started understanding these things. It's not about aesthetic preferences — it's about precise physiological mechanisms. Natural light and circadian rhythms Natural light is closely tied to circadian rhythms — the internal biological clock that regulates the sleep-wake cycle. Exposure to sunlight during the day helps maintain good mental health and promotes better quality sleep. A room with little natural light isn't just "less attractive." It's a room that interferes with your biological clock, reduces serotonin production during the day, and makes it harder to fall asleep at night. Visual order and cortisol The organisation of domestic environments affects comfort, the ability to relax and the management of daily activities. Elements such as natural light, ventilation, noise and order directly influence emotional regulation. A visually chaotic space — too many objects, a fragmented colour palette, furniture that doesn't work together — activates the nervous system in a subtle but continuous way. You don't experience it as stress, but your body registers it. You come home tired and you're not quite sure why. Nature and the parasympathetic system Natural environments are perceived as significantly more restorative than urban ones. Research published in Nature found that spending at least 120 minutes a week in nature is associated with higher levels of wellbeing and life satisfaction. You can't bring nature indoors literally — but you can bring its elements. Natural light, organic materials, plants, colours inspired by the natural palette. It's not aesthetics. It's biophilia — the instinctive human need to stay connected to the natural world. The colour temperature of artificial light We talk about this often on this blog. A 2700K (warm) light in the evening promotes melatonin production and prepares the body for rest. A light at 4000K or above does the opposite — it signals to the brain "it's still daytime, stay alert." It seems like a detail. It changes the quality of your sleep, and therefore the quality of every day that follows. The Italian Problem: Why Almost Nobody Thinks About This Here's the thing that gives me no peace. We know that diet influences health — and we think about it. We know that physical activity influences wellbeing — and we think about it. We know that relationships influence quality of life — and we think about it. But the space where we spend 60–70% of our lives — home — almost nobody designs consciously. In Italy, fewer than 10% of people have ever worked with a professional to design their own home. Not because they don't care. But because there has always been a cultural and economic barrier that made interior design something for the few. The architect was someone you called for a villa, not for the 70sqm apartment you live in every day. This distance — between people and the culture of domestic design — is why Restylit was born. What I Understood Coming Home Every Evening I'm not a designer. I haven't formed a professional opinion about the space I live in. But I stopped living in basements — in the literal and metaphorical sense. And I can say — without romanticising — that the difference is concrete, daily, measurable. There's a decompression when I walk through the door. A sense of "I'm in the right place." I don't need much more than that. Jung was right. Home is a second skin. And like skin, you feel it on you every moment — even when you're not paying attention. The question isn't whether the space you live in influences you. The answer is yes, always — whether you've designed it or not. The question is whether you want it to do so consciously. What You Can Do — Without Renovating Anything Some of the things that have changed my daily experience of spaces the most didn't require major works or significant budgets. 1. Change the lightbulbs First thing. Now. Any bulb above 3000K in the living room or bedroom — out. Replace it with 2700K. Costs a few euros. The difference in the evening is immediate. 2. Clear the surfaces Remove something instead of adding. A clear surface — a table, a shelf, a bedside table — gives a sense of order and breathing space that no additional purchase can provide. The brain interprets emptiness as calm. 3. Bring in natural light wherever you can Remove whatever is blocking your windows — heavy curtains, badly positioned furniture, objects on the windowsill. Natural light is the most valuable resource you have and it's almost always wasted. 4. Add one real plant Not for aesthetics. For the signal it sends to your nervous system — something alive, that grows, that requires care. Even a single plant in a corner changes the perceived quality of a room. 5. Choose a wall colour — the right one Not the default white. Not grey because "it goes with everything." A warm, considered colour that works with the light you have. You don't need four walls — one is enough. The Restylit Mission — Put Simply We design spaces where people finally feel like themselves. There was only one way to do it: lower the barriers and make professional talent accessible. Not €5,000 for a project. Not months of waiting. Not a mandatory physical site visit. An online process, a team of real architects, a 3D rendering that shows you what your home will look like before you move a single piece of furniture. From €289. Not because we want to devalue design. But because we believe that the space you live in — and what it makes you feel — shouldn't be a privilege. If you want to understand where to start, you can book a free 15-minute call with our team. No commitment — just a conversation about what isn't working in your space and how it could work better. Book the free call → FAQ Is environmental psychology an established science? Yes. It's an academic discipline that emerged in the 1960s with the work of Roger Barker and Harold Proshansky, and today includes sub-fields such as environmental neuroscience and restorative design. In Italy, researchers like Francesca Pazzaglia at the University of Padua conduct specific studies on the relationship between domestic space and psychophysical wellbeing. Do I need to renovate to feel better at home? No. Some of the most impactful variables — light, visual order, colour temperature — can be modified without structural work. Renovation amplifies the result, but it's not the mandatory starting point. How much does space really matter compared to other wellbeing factors? It's not possible to give a precise percentage — wellbeing is multifactorial. What research clearly indicates is that physical space is a real, non-negligible factor that operates continuously and subtly. It's not the most important factor, but it's the one most easily modified. Where does a Restylit consultation begin? With your floor plan and your photos. We understand the problem, then we build the solution — 3D renderings, shopping list, technical guidance. Online, across Italy and Europe. The home you live in isn't a backdrop. It's part of you. And if you don't feel well where you are — even vaguely, even without knowing why — it's worth asking whether the space has something to do with it. Discover Restylit projects → Restylit is an Italian interior design company, entirely online. We design residential and commercial spaces with photorealistic 3D renderings, shopping lists and technical drawings — across Italy and Europe.
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Balcony Solar Panels: They're Not as Ugly as You Think (and They Actually Save You Money)
Balcony Solar Panels: They're Not as Ugly as You Think (and They Actually Save You Money) By Mattea, co-founder and Interior Architect — Restylit What are balcony solar panels? They're a mini solar installation — one or two photovoltaic panels mounted on a balcony, terrace or apartment railing — that produces electricity for direct use at home. A standard 800W kit costs between €350 and €850, requires no planning permission, no approval from the residents' association, and with the 50% renovation bonus the net cost halves. Estimated annual savings range from €250 to €440 depending on location and consumption patterns. It's one of the most searched home topics of 2025. And one where the main objection is always the same: "Sure, but it's ugly." Let's talk about that. The Aesthetic Problem — Addressed Directly I'll say something that most solar panel articles never say: the aesthetic objection is legitimate. A black solar panel propped against a balcony railing, tilted at an angle, with cables running down the wall — that's not a design element. It's a functional object that, if poorly positioned, can genuinely compromise the look of a terrace and a building facade. But "can be ugly" doesn't mean "is necessarily ugly." It means it requires a little thought — like almost everything in space design. The truth is that the latest balcony panels are far more considered aesthetically than those of ten years ago. They're slim, dark, with clean profiles. On a balcony with a black or anthracite railing, well integrated, they're barely noticeable. On a balcony with planters, wood and natural materials, they can become part of a coherent composition. The problem isn't the panel. It's how it's positioned. How It Works — The Technical Part Made Simple Before talking about aesthetic integration, it's worth understanding what you're actually installing. The two types of system Plug & play (up to 350W) — a single panel that connects directly to a dedicated socket. No technician needed. The simplest format, one you can order online and install yourself over a weekend. Cost: €350–600. Mini installation (up to 800W) — one or two panels with a micro-inverter. Requires installation by a qualified technician and notification to the local grid operator. No planning permission, no residents' association approval needed. Cost: €650–850 before incentives. How much does it actually produce An 800W system produces roughly 950–1,200 kWh per year depending on location — less in northern regions, more in the south. With energy costs around €0.37/kWh in 2025, the potential annual saving is €350–440. But there's an important variable: self-consumption. The energy produced during the day needs to be consumed in real time — what you don't use immediately isn't stored (unless you have a battery). If you're home during the day, your savings are maximised. If you're at work from 9 to 6, some of the energy produced during peak hours gets "donated" to the grid. How quickly do you recoup the investment? With an energy cost of €0.37/kWh and 65% self-consumption, the real saving in bills is around €252 per year for an 800W system without a battery. With the 50% renovation bonus, the net cost of the system drops to €325–425. Time to break even: 1.5–2 years. Not bad. The 2025 Rules: What You Can Do Without Asking Anyone's Permission This is the part that worries people most — and it's actually much simpler than it looks. No residents' association approval needed. Article 1122-bis of the Italian Civil Code establishes that residents can install photovoltaic systems for personal use on their own property without assembly consent, provided the installation doesn't compromise structural stability or significantly alter the building's architectural character. A February 2026 ruling by the Monza Tribunal further reinforced this — the condominium cannot block the installation. It's good practice to notify the building manager in writing, but it's a notice — not a request for permission. No planning permission needed. Systems up to 800W fall under simplified connection procedures introduced by ARERA, with no planning permits required as long as they don't alter the building's structure or aesthetics. They're classified as free construction works. What you actually need to do: For plug & play (up to 350W): nothing bureaucratic. Install and use. For mini systems (up to 800W): a single notification to the local grid operator. Done online, takes 15 minutes. 2025 Incentives — What You Need to Know 50% Renovation Bonus Balcony solar panels fall under the Renovation Bonus with a 50% IRPEF tax deduction on primary residences and 36% on other properties, up to €96,000 per unit, spread over 10 years. In practice: if you spend €800, you recover €400 over 10 years (€40/year off your tax return). Net effective cost: €400. Reduced VAT at 10% Purchase and installation benefit from 10% VAT instead of 22%. An automatic saving. How to access the bonus: Payment by dedicated bank transfer (with the required legal reference), keep the invoices, declare on your tax return. Nothing complicated — your accountant can handle it in five minutes. The Design Side: How to Integrate It Without Ruining the Terrace This is the part I most want to address — and that almost no solar panel article ever touches. Position is everything. A panel tilted randomly on a railing, pointed south but positioned at an odd angle with visible cables running down the wall — that's the "ugly" version everyone imagines. And it's avoidable. The best positions from an aesthetic standpoint: On the parapet or railing — with dedicated brackets that keep the panel vertical or slightly angled, clean in profile. If the railing is dark, the panel integrates almost completely. As a pergola or canopy covering — if the terrace already has a structure, panels become part of the roof. This is the most aesthetically successful solution and also the one that maximises output. On a ground-mounted tilted frame — in a corner of the terrace, as a standalone element. Works well if the terrace is large enough to incorporate it as part of the overall composition. The cables — the real aesthetic problem. The cable connecting the panel to the indoor socket is what, poorly managed, ruins everything. The solution is simple: wall-mounted cable channels in the same colour as the wall or floor, or painted plastic conduit. Costs a few euros and changes the whole visual result. Panel colour and finish. Modern panels are almost all matte black or gloss black. On a terrace with dark elements, plants, natural wood or metal — they integrate well. On a bright white terrace with light-coloured paving, they stand out more. In that case it's worth considering a railing-mounted position rather than floor level. The panel as part of the project. What I like most about balcony solar from a design perspective is this: if you think of it as part of the terrace project rather than an afterthought, everything changes. It's not an ugly box stuck on later — it's an element that produces energy, has its own logic, and is positioned where it needs to be. Exactly like any other functional element in a well-designed space. When It's Not Worth It — The Honest Answer I don't want to write the article that only says positive things. There are cases where balcony solar simply doesn't make sense. North-facing balcony. Orientation is everything. A north-facing balcony produces very little — often 40–50% less than a south-facing one. Break-even times stretch dramatically. Balcony shaded by other buildings. If direct sunlight only reaches you for a few hours a day, production is limited. It's worth making a realistic estimate before buying. If you're rarely home during the day. Without a battery, energy produced that you don't consume in real time is fed to the grid for free. If you work outside all day and come home in the evening, effective self-consumption will be low and savings smaller than expected. If your building has architectural heritage restrictions. Historic buildings, protected zones, facades with specific aesthetic requirements — in these cases the "must not alter the architectural character" clause of Article 1122-bis can be interpreted more strictly. Worth checking before you install. Storage Battery: Is It Worth It? A battery solves the self-consumption problem — it stores energy produced during the day and releases it in the evening when you need it. With a LiFePO4 battery, self-consumption rises from 60–70% to 80–95%. The additional cost is around €500–900, but the break-even time remains competitive, often between 4 and 6 years. Worth it if your consumption is concentrated in the evening — air conditioning, washing machine, cooking, television. Less worth it if you're home during the day and already consuming most of the produced energy in real time. The Question Everyone Asks: How Much Do I Actually Save? Let's do the honest maths, without excessive optimism. Typical scenario — apartment in Milan, south-facing balcony, family that works outside during the day: 800W system, no battery Estimated annual production: ~950 kWh Realistic self-consumption: 60% = 570 kWh self-consumed Annual saving: 570 × €0.37 = €211 System cost after 50% bonus: ~€375 Break-even time: under 2 years Optimal scenario — apartment in Rome, south-facing terrace, person working from home: 800W system, no battery Estimated annual production: ~1,200 kWh Realistic self-consumption: 80% = 960 kWh self-consumed Annual saving: 960 × €0.37 = €355 System cost after 50% bonus: ~€375 Break-even time: just over 1 year After breaking even, the system continues producing energy for 20+ years. That's a return that's hard to find elsewhere. FAQ Can I install balcony solar without telling anyone? For plug & play systems up to 350W, technically yes. For mini systems up to 800W, you need to notify the local grid operator (a simple online procedure) and it's good practice to inform the building manager, even though it's not an approval process. Does balcony solar increase property value? Marginally and difficult to quantify for balcony-scale systems. The main benefit is the immediate energy saving, not property appreciation. How many panels can I put on my balcony? Depends on available space and the power limit — 800W total for the simplified procedure. With 400W panels, that's two. With 350W panels, you can get close to the limit with slightly fewer. If I move, can I take the panels with me? Yes — that's one of the advantages of the balcony format versus rooftop panels. They're easily dismounted and reinstalled in the new apartment. Do balcony solar panels work in winter? Yes, but with reduced output. The worst months are December, January and February when performance drops 10–30% due to shorter daylight hours. The annual balance remains positive. It's not a solution for everyone and it doesn't solve everything. But for those with a well-exposed balcony, the possibility of recouping an investment in under two years on a system that lasts twenty is hard to ignore. And if you integrate it properly into the terrace design — rather than adding it as an afterthought — it can become a coherent part of a well-considered outdoor space. If you're rethinking your terrace or balcony and want professional advice on how to integrate it into the overall project → Restylit is an Italian interior design company, entirely online. We design residential and commercial spaces with photorealistic 3D renderings, shopping lists and technical drawings — across Italy and Europe.
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Glass Blocks Are Back: Why the Material You Hated in the 80s Has Become a Star of Contemporary Interiors
Glass Blocks Are Back: Why the Material You Hated in the 80s Has Become a Star of Contemporary Interiors Why are glass blocks coming back into fashion? Because they answer three needs that dominate residential design right now: natural light, privacy, and spatial separation without heavy masonry. After a long period of association with the kitsch bathrooms of the 1980s, glass blocks have cleaned up aesthetically and are returning to contemporary projects in a completely different way — more restrained, more architectural, more intentional. This isn't nostalgia. It's function. First of All: What Are We Actually Talking About Glass block, glass brick, vetromattone — different names for the same material. A pressed glass module, hollow on the inside, that allows light to pass through without allowing direct vision. The standard module is square, 19×19cm, about 8cm thick. Inside there's an air cavity that contributes to thermal insulation. The surface can be smooth, rippled, satin, or matte. The classic colour is that transparent blue-green everyone remembers, but today there are neutral, white, black and satin finishes that have nothing to do with that aesthetic. Understanding the difference between these finishes is where everything changes: Classic transparent — allows a lot of light through and you can see the silhouette of whoever is on the other side. This is the 80s version. I almost never recommend it. Satin or matte — diffuses light without showing anything. This is what's used now. Creates beautiful luminous effects with no voyeuristic component. Coloured — exists, but needs to be used with considerable care. Green, blue, pink — they can work in specific contexts, but require a precise project built around them. The History: How an Industrial Material Became an Icon, Then Disappeared Glass block was born in the 1920s — not for homes, but for factories. It was used to bring light into industrial buildings without opening large windows. Resistant, waterproof, translucent. The first house to use it seriously was the Maison de Verre in Paris, designed in 1932 by Pierre Chareau. A facade made entirely of glass blocks, capable of filtering light during the day and glowing from within at night. At the time, Saint-Gobain — who manufactured the blocks — couldn't even guarantee the material would withstand weather. Nearly a century later, that house still stands, perfectly intact. Then came the 1980s. Glass block entered mass-market private homes — bathrooms, showers, partition walls. But it was used badly. Transparent, with coarse texture, in questionable colour combinations. It became synonymous with apartments that needed gutting. And there it stayed, for thirty years. What's happening now is different. As architect Thomas Karsten from Berlin put it in a recent interview: glass block is an ancient material with a futuristic footprint — it works today exactly as it did a hundred years ago. We just use it better now. Why It's Coming Back Now — The Real Reasons This isn't a random trend. There are precise reasons why glass block has returned to contemporary projects. 1. The light problem in modern apartments Urban homes have become smaller and more compressed. Many apartments have rooms with no windows, dark corridors, bathrooms with no natural light. Glass block solves this elegantly — it brings natural light from one room to another without opening up the floor plan. A glass block wall between the bathroom and the bedroom, or between the corridor and the living room, completely transforms how both spaces feel. It's not a decorative detail. It's a design decision that changes how you live in the apartment. 2. The reaction against sterile minimalism After a decade of white walls, smooth surfaces and spaces that looked like showrooms, people are looking for materials with character. Glass block has texture, depth, a luminous quality that no other material can replicate. It creates shadows and reflections that shift with the time of day. It's tactile. It has presence. Someone on Twitter a few years ago put it well: we've really lost the plot with minimalism. It doesn't need to be ugly greige and tearing up beautiful old houses to make things look sleek and lifeless. That post had tens of thousands of shares. It says something real about where collective taste is heading. 3. The relatively low cost compared to other special materials At a time when construction costs have exploded, glass block is still accessible. It costs far less than structural glazing, less than a steel and glass partition, less than almost any architectural alternative that delivers similar light effects. It's become an intelligent way to create something visually strong without spending a fortune. 4. Improved technical performance Modern glass blocks are not the same as the ones from the 1980s. Dry-fit systems (without mortar) make installation more precise and the final result far cleaner. Thermal and acoustic performance has improved. And the range of finishes available is completely different from thirty years ago. How to Use Glass Block Well Today — and Where It Doesn't Work This is the part I care most about, because I see a lot of projects using it badly. Where it works well: Partition walls between rooms — by far the most effective use. A non-load-bearing wall replaced with glass blocks transforms two dark rooms into two bright ones. In apartments with complex floor plans or corridors with no visual outlet, it's often the smartest solution available. Shower enclosures and bathroom walls — the original context, and still one of the best today. But with satin or matte finishes, not transparent. The result is a spa-like atmosphere — soft, diffused light, complete privacy. Entrance-to-living separation — in apartments without an entrance hall, a small glass block wall between the front door and the living area creates a transition without closing the space. Even just a few rows of blocks work — you don't need a full wall. Kitchen backsplash — one or two rows of glass blocks above the worktop, in place of the traditional tile splashback, creates an interesting effect in kitchens that look onto courtyards or that need additional light. Mezzanines and stairwells — glass block walls around a staircase bring light down to the lower floors and create visual continuity between levels without fully opening the space. Where it doesn't work: As a decorative element on a solid wall — a panel of glass blocks on a wall that doesn't lead anywhere and doesn't divide anything is purely decorative. And as decoration, it rarely justifies the complexity of installation. Paired with very warm, soft styles — glass block has an industrial, modernist soul. It works well with concrete, metal, dark wood, white. It doesn't work as naturally surrounded by floral curtains and Provençal furniture. With classic transparent finishes — said it above, worth repeating. Transparent glass block at full view is the 1980s version. Today you use satin or matte, almost always. In excessive quantities — using it everywhere is the worst mistake you can make. It's a material that works as a standout element. One wall, two at most. Not the whole apartment. The Projects That Convinced Us One of the projects that has stayed with me is by the studio Papundekl Architects, working on a poorly lit 1970s apartment. Instead of demolishing walls, they created new partitions entirely in glass block — with curved blocks that follow the line of the corridor and wrap around the bathroom. Light literally travels across the whole apartment. The walls aren't dividing — they're filtering. This is the approach that makes glass block interesting today. Not as a cladding, not as decoration. As an architectural element that builds space through light. The Restylit Perspective: When We Recommend It and When We Don't In the projects we follow, glass block comes up in conversation every time there's a light problem to solve without knocking down walls. We often recommend it in apartments with: Bathrooms or corridors without natural light Open-plan spaces that need dividing without losing brightness Entrances without a hallway Renovations where a strong architectural element is wanted without excessive cost We don't recommend it when: The problem is aesthetic rather than functional — there are better materials The apartment's style is very warm and organic (Japandi, wabi-sabi) — glass block has a different soul The budget is very tight and there are more urgent priorities — it's always a special element, not a base material The thing we always say: glass block used well doesn't read as glass block. It reads as light. If the first thing you notice when you walk into a room is "ah, they've used glass block," it's probably been overdone. If the first thing you think is "what beautiful light this bathroom has," the work is done right. If you're renovating and wondering whether glass block might solve a problem in your apartment, that's exactly the kind of question we work through in our consultations. You understand the problem first, then choose the material — never the other way around. Book a free 15-minute call → FAQ How much does it cost to install a glass block wall? Costs vary significantly depending on size and installation type. A roughly 2sqm wall in standard glass blocks with traditional mortar installation can cost between €400 and €800 in labour alone, plus materials (€30–60 per sqm). Dry-fit systems are more expensive but give a cleaner final result. It's a modest investment compared to other architectural solutions with similar effects. Does glass block provide acoustic insulation? Better than you'd expect. The thickness of the blocks and the internal air cavity provide acoustic insulation superior to a single plasterboard wall. It doesn't replace a properly insulated traditional wall, but for internal partitions it's often a workable compromise. Can glass block be used in a rented apartment renovation? In principle yes, but it needs to be agreed with the landlord — it constitutes a structural modification. Many rental contracts require written authorisation for structural changes. What's the difference between glass block and glass brick? They're the same thing. In Italian, vetrocemento describes the construction technique (glass elements assembled with mortar), vetromattone refers to the individual module. In practice both terms refer to the same product. Can glass block be used on exteriors? Yes — that was its original use. Facades, skylights, ventilated external walls. It requires specific external installation systems and needs to be correctly specified to handle thermal stress. For exterior uses, professional consultation is always necessary. How do you clean it? This is the material's weak point. The irregular surface of glass blocks collects dirt and limescale, especially in bathrooms. Satin finishes are harder to clean than smooth ones. In bathrooms, regular cleaning with specific glass products is necessary — don't let limescale build up. Glass block is one of those materials that divides opinion — those who love it can't imagine their apartment without it, those who hate it still think of their grandmother's bathroom. The truth is that used well, in the right place, it's one of the few materials genuinely capable of transforming how light enters an apartment. And light, as we keep saying, is the most important material you have. See how we work → Restylit is an Italian interior design company, entirely online. We design residential and commercial spaces with photorealistic 3D renderings, shopping lists and technical drawings — across Italy and Europe.
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How to Make a Living Room Look Bigger: 10 Rules Our Architects Use
How to Make a Living Room Look Bigger: 10 Rules Architects Use By Mattea, co-founder and Interior Architect — Restylit How do you make a living room look bigger? With three main levers: light, proportions and visual continuity. There are no magic tricks — only optical principles that work because the brain reads space in a predictable way. Applying them well requires method, not necessarily a high budget. Most of the things that "shrink" a living room don't depend on the square footage. They depend on wrong choices — a rug that's too small, curtains that are too short, furniture that's too large or too numerous. Remove the mistakes and the space starts breathing again, even without moving a wall. The 3 Optical Principles Behind Everything Before talking about mirrors and colours, we need to understand how the brain perceives space. It's not a matter of taste — it's physiology. 1. Light opens, shadow closes. A dark room seems smaller than it is. Not because it has fewer square metres, but because the eye can't read the boundaries of the space. Every shadowed corner is a boundary that feels closer. The more light there is — natural or artificial, as long as it's warm and diffused — the more the space opens up. 2. Visual continuity widens. Every interruption — a colour change, a piece of furniture blocking the view, a rug that's too small creating an isolated island — breaks the space and makes it feel fragmented, and therefore small. Continuity, on the other hand, widens. 3. Visible floor creates air. Furniture with legs lets you see the floor beneath. A visible floor makes the space feel larger because the eye perceives the surface as continuous. Furniture resting directly on the floor creates horizontal visual barriers that cut the space. Had you ever noticed that? Hey, before we continue — take a look at our interior design consultations and book a free 15-minute call → Now, let's get back to it! 1. Free Up the Natural Light — Before Doing Anything Else The window is the most valuable asset in a small living room. Most people neutralise it by placing furniture in front of it, hanging heavy curtains, or both. The right curtains for a small living room aren't the ones that "frame" the window — they're the ones that are as invisible as possible when open. Light fabrics, a colour close to the wall, a track mounted 10–15cm from the ceiling (not from the top of the window frame). When the curtains are open, they shouldn't cover the sides of the glass. Windows need to be kept clean, inside and out — natural light filtered through a dirty pane loses 20–30% of its intensity. Obvious, but always forgotten. 2. The Rug: Bigger Than You Think The most common mistake in small living rooms: the rug is too small. A rug that's too small creates an "island" effect and makes everything feel more cramped. A larger one that embraces at least the main seating makes the living room look more ordered at a glance. The rule is always the same: the front legs of the sofa must sit on the rug. A rug that holds the front legs of the sofa and surrounding seating unifies the space, defines it with purpose, and paradoxically makes it feel larger — because it eliminates visual fragmentation. The minimum size for a small living room: at least 160×230cm. Smaller than this, in almost every context, is too small. 3. Mirrors: Where They Work (and Where They Don't) Mirrors expand the space — but only when positioned correctly. Used badly, they reflect dark corners or create confused effects that help nobody. Where they work: Opposite a window — they reflect natural light and double the room's brightness Along the longest wall of the living room — they visually lengthen the space As a tall vertical element — they draw the eye upward and make ceilings feel higher Where they don't work: Opposite a solid wall with no windows — they only reflect darkness Low down, almost at floor level — they don't create depth, they create confusion Leaning against the wall instead of being hung — they take up floor space without giving the full effect The golden rule: one large mirror always beats three small ones. Fragmentation is the enemy of a small space. 4. Wall Colour: White Isn't the Only Answer The most common advice for small living rooms is "use light colours." It's correct — but incomplete. Light colours reflect light and visually widen the space. But pure, cold white in a room with little natural light becomes almost metallic — it reflects in an unpleasant way and doesn't warm the space. The best choice for a small living room: warm ivory, sandy beige, cream, very light warm grey. Tones that reflect without glaring. The dark wall trick that actually widens: Counterintuitive, but it works. Painting a piece of furniture and the wall behind it the same tone, or choosing a dark shade for the wall behind the TV, reduces the visual impact of the furniture by making it "disappear" into the structure of the room. This trick is particularly useful in small living rooms. A dark back wall — behind the television, or the one furthest from the entrance — creates depth. The eye perceives the wall as set further back. The room feels deeper. Colour drenching: painting the doors, mouldings and skirting boards the same colour as the walls prevents the room from feeling broken up and fragmented by the various openings. In small living rooms with multiple doors, this technique reduces visual interruptions and gives the space coherence. 5. Furniture With Legs Seeing the floor continue beneath furniture and storage units gives a sense of air. A sofa with legs — even low ones, even just 10–15cm — makes the space feel lighter than one that rests directly on the floor. The same goes for storage units, bookcases and bedside tables. The rule: in a small living room, any piece of furniture that can be raised off the floor, should be. Visible floor is perceived space. Glass furniture or pieces with reflective surfaces work on the same principle — they don't block the view, they don't create visual barriers, and the space "passes through" them. 6. Long Curtains Down to the Floor — Always Curtains that end halfway up the wall visually break the height of the room. Curtains that reach the floor — even in a living room with low ceilings — create the illusion of height. The trick is to mount the track or rod as close to the ceiling as possible (not above the top of the window) and choose curtains that skim the floor. The result is a continuous vertical line that draws the eye upward and makes the room feel taller. The ideal fabric: light, semi-transparent or raw linen. Avoid heavy velvets and dark colours — they block the light and close the space in. 7. A Continuous Floor — Without Interruptions When the floor is fragmented by too many changes, the room breaks apart. A uniform floor — same material, same direction — makes the space feel more continuous and therefore larger. Every change of material creates a visual boundary that cuts the space. If you're renovating: a large-format porcelain floor (60×120cm or 60×60cm) laid continuously without excessive grout lines visually expands better than small-strip parquet or a mosaic floor. If you can't change the floor: use a rug large enough to unify the living zone rather than fragmenting it further. 8. A Few Strong Pieces, Not Many Average Ones A small living room can't handle too many "statement pieces." Better to choose one: a coffee table with an interesting finish, an armchair with a standout fabric, a lamp that makes an impression. Everything else should be coherent and quieter. That way the eye has a place to rest and the room feels more composed. Too many small decorative objects create visual noise. The eye doesn't know where to look and perceives confusion. One strong element, a few supporting elements, everything else silent. The rule of less: before adding something, ask yourself whether you're improving the space or filling it. 9. Vertical Lines Raise the Ceiling Everything that draws the eye upward makes the room feel taller — and a taller room automatically feels larger. Vertical stripes on walls, tall narrow artwork, decorative vertical-slat panels, and pendant lamps all draw the gaze upward, making the space feel more expansive. In practice: a bookcase that reaches the ceiling expands more than a low one. A tall, slim pendant lamp expands more than a ceiling fixture. A tall, narrow piece of artwork expands more than a low, horizontal one. 10. Order Is a Design Choice, Not a Habit A cluttered space looks small and claustrophobic. If the space is free of excess objects, the room feels larger. This doesn't mean living in a catalogue-style apartment with nothing in it. It means designing the space so that every object has a place — and when it's in its place, the room works. Furniture with integrated storage (benches with drawers, tables with compartments, ottomans with internal space) are real investments in a small space — because they allow you to maintain order without giving up your belongings. The Mistakes That Shrink the Space — The Quick List Rug too small — creates visual islands instead of unifying Short curtains — break the perceived height Too many small decorative objects — visual noise Furniture sitting on the floor — no air underneath Single overhead light source — shadows that close off the corners Different colours in every corner — visual fragmentation Sofa too large — takes up physical and visual space Small mirrors — not enough, and sometimes make things worse All furniture against the walls — creates a dead void in the centre Partially blocked window — wastes the room's main asset Checklist: Before Making Any Purchase Use this checklist to assess your living room before taking action. Light Is the window clear and unblocked by furniture or heavy curtains? Are there at least 2–3 different light sources (not just the ceiling light)? Are the bulbs at 2700K (warm light)? Proportions Is the rug large enough to hold the front legs of the sofa? Do the main pieces of furniture have legs or leave the floor visible? Is there at least 90cm of clear circulation space between pieces? Visual continuity Is the floor uniform without too many interruptions? Do the walls have a coherent palette? Do the curtains reach close to the ceiling and close to the floor? Visual order Does every decorative object have a precise place? Is there one strong element and everything else quiet? Have I removed everything that isn't really needed? The Restylit Perspective The thing we see most often in small living rooms isn't a lack of space — it's a lack of design. Choices made one at a time, without an overall vision, that accumulate until the room closes in. A small living room doesn't need more square metres. It needs fewer mistakes. If you'd like a professional eye on your space before making any purchases, at Restylit we always start from the floor plan and photos — and tell you exactly what to remove, what to move, and what to add. Book a free 15-minute call → Restylit is an Italian interior design company, entirely online. We design living rooms, kitchens, bathrooms and complete spaces — 3D renderings, shopping lists, technical drawings. Across Italy and Europe.
Learn more5 tips for a home with personality
Few things give the same satisfaction as a home full of personality modeled on your idea of design. The comfort that a unique, yet familiar home gives us is immense. To make the space you live in feel like you from the moment you set foot in it, it's easier than it seems. Follow these five tips and take notes to adapt your home to you. Handcrafted or vintage Instead of relying on a single furniture brand, we recommend that you take a look around and investigate the world of design. Look for what suits you best, without fear of going outside the conventional. Handcrafted or vintage products will help you make your home special. To find these design treasures, visit thrift stores: the story behind your furniture will make the difference. Custom made furniture One of the best ways to give personality to your home is to make it custom, creating projects designed to best fit the spaces available. Working step by step to create a custom piece of furniture is a unique experience, a great opportunity to dive into the world of furniture and see what happens behind the scenes of every design magazine. If you feel that something doesn't fit in your home, review the dimensions of the furniture in relation to the space available and try to gradually incorporate pieces made exclusively for you. Natural materials We live surrounded by plastic and synthetic materials, which make the house aseptic and monotonous. This negative effect is also reflected in the atmosphere of the spaces, which are greatly affected. To give your home that sense of welcome and familiarity that you desire, use natural materials, such as wood, stone, wicker and so on. Your home will thank you. Fabrics The fabric you choose for your home plays a crucial role: it can make or break the atmosphere inside. To create a sense of comfort and lightheartedness, try replacing the fabrics of cushions, blankets or curtains with new ones. The different textures of the materials can transform the look of each individual room, so remember to combine them as a whole and match them carefully. Pro tip: we recommend trying natural fibers to give an eco-friendly touch to your home! Watch out for the handles The impact that the look of the handles has on your home is huge: changing this small element completely revolutionizes the entire piece of furniture. A different handle can add color, simple and sinuous lines, minimalism or pizzazz. If you don't know where to start with your home, experiment with different styles of handles.
Learn moreBest Materials for Your Kitchen Walls
When we design a kitchen, we also think about the materials as a whole and how they fit together coherently with the rest of the house. Kitchen walls are prone to rubbing and friction, so they show more obvious signs of wear than other areas of the house. If you want to renovate your kitchen, all its elements must be in complete harmony. Under no circumstances should you neglect the surface of your kitchen counter, stove, and work area. Since it is a large surface and prone to staining, it will be the first to look neglected if it is not in impeccable condition. The best materials for kitchen walls Porcelain It is a very resistant material and easy to clean, especially if you choose a large model that reduces the number of visible joints. The range of prices and models is endless, so it is a material suitable for any situation. Small size tiles They have the advantage of giving a particular finish to the walls, making them, however, more complicated to maintain. Furthermore, we recommend reserving them for a single wall that will be put on display and become the true protagonist of the kitchen. Natural stones The charm of natural stone is unmatched. Cladding kitchen walls with this porous and delicate material requires more care than other materials, but it will age better. The passing of time makes the stones shine even more. The same material as the counter This is a coherent and linear option, especially if the counter material is porcelain or stone. It is the perfect covering for a minimalist and simple kitchen. Microcement The biggest advantage? Versatility, since it takes up little space and can be applied to any material in the kitchen. We recommend it for walls rather than floors, considering the thinness of the material. In addition, it is waterproof and becomes easier to clean over time.
Learn moreRenovating an old house
Renovating a newly purchased old home must be a thoughtful and well-researched decision. To ensure your choices are right, focus on the following basic points to make your old home a perfect environment. With our advice, everything will seem easier: The floor plan The floor plan of the house will be of great help to you in pondering the many possibilities of space management possible. Adapting your old house to your current preferences is much easier if you have the measurements of each room, since you can redesign and plan the spaces calmly. House structure The original structure of the old house can influence the interventions you will carry out inside it. For example, the position of the load-bearing walls or any columns influences the design of the spaces, which are difficult to modify. The distribution of the rooms, in fact, is a fundamental factor in the renovation of an old house. Wall height Very often the height of the walls and how much free space there is are overlooked, even though it is a decisive factor in the renovation. When reorganizing the spaces we recommend installing a false ceiling that facilitates the insertion of recessed lights or air conditioners, if necessary. Therefore, when you visit the old house you would like to buy, take a look at the vertical space of each room and knock with your knuckles to see if there is a false ceiling or not. If so, it will be easier to calculate the measurements of your installations in advance. Humidity The presence of humidity is a delicate matter, since any repairs are not immediate. The behavior of water is unpredictable and it may take several attempts before finding a solution. For this reason, we recommend carefully checking each wall of your old home that, due to the passage of time, could present infiltrations or water leaks.
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The art of "decluttering", the real guide to tidying up your home and feeling better!
Organizing your home, or decluttering (is that how you say it?), is no small feat, but the benefits go far beyond the simple visual satisfaction of clean, well-organized spaces. A tidy space that contains only what we need has a major impact on how we feel. Removing clutter reduces the visual impact and the feeling of being surrounded by "unfinished" tasks. Plus, by clearing extraneous objects from the space, it's easier to see, use, and even clean what's left. In short, decluttering leads to a happier home, and knowing how to best declutter is very important. Clutter is easy to accumulate and happens without us realizing it, but it’s probably taken years for your home to get to that point. It’s important to be realistic about how long a whole-house decluttering project will take, both to avoid becoming discouraged and to stay motivated along the way. Where to Start Decluttering Organizing your home requires a great deal of mental and emotional energy. To be successful, you need to not only have the right tools on hand, but also approach the project with a clear plan. Considering the pitfalls and obstacles before diving into the project ensures that you don’t get bogged down when, say, you encounter a gift from a former colleague or when you find yourself in a huge mess without the energy to move on to the next step. It’s also crucial that you put yourself in the right frame of mind before you begin, to maintain the momentum needed to get the job done. “The first step before you jump in is to visualize what you want your home to look like,” recommends Kim Jones, founder and CEO of the organizing company Lock and Key Home . “Imagine waving a magic wand and your dreams coming true. What would it look like? How would you feel? Do you smile at the thought? Write it all down so you can refer back to it.” Jones also suggests using the power of the proverbial spoonful of sugar: "It's also really important to know what motivates you," she says. "For me, I'm most productive with a cup of coffee and some '90s rap on full blast. For others, it can be the exact opposite. It's important to know what gets you going and what gives you the energy to be ready to conquer." Sarit Weiss, founder and chief organizer of Neat and Orderly Home Organizing , offers some practical tips for preparing for a decluttering marathon: Create a schedule and give yourself a deadline. “Whether you plan to declutter in one day or over the course of a week, having a schedule ensures you’re dedicating time to each room or area. This approach makes the process more systematic and less overwhelming,” Weiss says, adding that a schedule can help break the project down into bite-sized chunks. "You don't have to dedicate an entire day to decluttering. Setting aside an hour or two each day, or even each week, can help you reach your decluttering goals." A deadline keeps the project from dragging on forever. “For those who work well with deadlines, set a realistic deadline to complete the decluttering process,” Weiss suggests. “This adds a sense of urgency and helps maintain focus.” The deadline is flexible and can be set to what works best for you. Where to suffer, room by room. Decluttering in the kitchen Decluttering the kitchen has a huge impact on how a home functions. It’s the “hub of a home,” Jones says, adding that it’s where you spend the most time (and not just for eating and cooking!) and where guests gather. That’s why it should be the first place to start, Jones says, not only because it’s used every day, but also because it’s often the easiest to clean. Here’s how. To declutter your home, especially your kitchen, start with a small section. “You don’t have to clean out every cabinet or pantry at once,” Weiss says. “Pick a micro-area, like a drawer, cabinet, or pantry shelf, to begin the decluttering process.” Get rid of items that don't belong to you. Grab a laundry basket or box and quickly gather items that need to go somewhere else. Set this aside for later and focus on the kitchen. Start with the refrigerator. Jones recommends starting with the refrigerator as your first micro-area. “This will build momentum, because throwing out old food and empty mustard bottles requires no thought. The ‘throw away’ mentality will take hold.” Use the “empty, categorize, and put” strategy. For every space in your kitchen, including the refrigerator, use this decluttering method. For example, once you’ve emptied the refrigerator, put everything into categories on the counter. Then, sort by category: decide on each item, check expiration dates or whether it’s still good to use, and then keep, donate, or throw out what needs to be eliminated. Before you put things back in the refrigerator, give it a thorough cleaning. When you put things back, consider how you’ll arrange them, whether by frequency of use or what you need most. Bonus: Evaluate your purchases. Jones says this is a good time to evaluate your purchases to see what you use and what you don’t use and make better decisions about future purchases. Continue the strategy of clearing, sorting, and organizing for the rest of the kitchen. Here are some areas to declutter: cabinets, drawers, pantry, and/or under-sink area. Let's move on to the bathroom Jones stresses the importance of personalized organization, especially in the bathroom. “You want your bathroom to be organized in a way that supports your process. If you’re one of the many people who get out of bed on autopilot in the morning, you want your space to be as intuitive as possible,” Jones says. Clear out cabinets and drawers. Jones and Weiss agree with this first step, but they add that you should also clear things off countertops. Decide what to keep and what to throw away. It's time to throw out all the items that are expired, unsafe, or no longer needed. Check the expiration dates printed on personal hygiene items and the symbol that indicates how long the product remains fresh once opened. Create categories. Group items into categories and narrow down what you need and what you don’t. These categories could be: makeup, skin care, hair tools, medical supplies, etc. “Make sure all the items you are categorizing and want to put in the bathroom are items you use in the bathroom. Items that don’t belong in the bathroom should be moved,” Weiss adds. Create a system. This will save you time, reduce stress levels, and make it easier to grab and take away items,” Jones explains. “Visualize your routine and what you use on a daily basis, and use the top drawers for those items. For example, toothbrushes, toothpaste, hairbrush, facial cleanser, cotton balls, and swabs.” Designate zones and replace items. Once you’ve thought about your system, designate zones for each category of items. “Dedicate one area of your vanity to each category of items,” Weiss says. “The vanity may seem small, but you can always maximize space by adding stackable bins. This will help you store more of your essentials in the vanity.” Baskets are helpful for maintaining zones, and backsplashes can maximize countertop and cabinet space. Let's move on to the wardrobe Your closet can be one of the most daunting areas to declutter. The thought of dealing with so many items—many of which are tied to feelings, desires, or guilt—can seem overwhelming before you even begin. However, a few strategies can make the entire process go more smoothly and help you finish what you started. Break the project down into categories. While many other areas of the home start with a clean-out of an entire space, when it comes to clearing out closets, it’s best to break them down into categories. “Since this is a big task, break it down into sections: clothes, shoes, and accessories,” Jones advises. Even if you decide to clear out your entire closet at once, break the items down into categories. Seeing everything you have in one category makes it easier to get rid of extra items. Deciding what to keep to organize your home is key. Go through each clothing category and decide what to keep, what to throw away, what to sell, and what to donate. Set aside designated spaces or, better yet, bins for each of these categories. You may need to try on items, and decisions may not always be easy. Keep in mind ideas such as what makes you feel good, what makes you smile or frown, whether you have repeat items, and whether they fit into your current lifestyle. Put away everything you keep. Creating designated spaces for different types of items is key to an organized closet, according to Weiss. “Designate specific areas for each clothing category, keeping the space organized and visually pleasing,” she says. She also recommends organizing closet rods to ensure that hanging rods stay categorized. The bedroom A tidy and organized bedroom has a big impact on the quality of your relaxation and sleep. But the bedroom can quickly become cluttered with items like clothes, plates of drinks and midnight snacks, unpacked suitcases, and linens in various stages of completion. Plus, it’s easy to shut the door on bedroom clutter, and because it’s such a private room, it’s often the last priority when it comes to tidying up. Eliminate items that don't belong. Often a messy bedroom is filled with items that don't belong to you. This can be the quickest type of clutter to deal with. Take a laundry basket or box and gather everything that belongs in another room, then put it outside the bedroom and deal with it later. Clear the surfaces. Next, clear the surfaces of the bedroom of anything that is left in the room and quickly put it back in its place. This way, when you move on to the next step, you will not have to deal with random objects. Then put the cream in the drawer, hang the bathrobe on the hook of the door and take care of the clean clothes that you need to fold and put away. To declutter your home, work in small areas. "Don't feel pressured to declutter your bedroom all at once. Start small, tackling one drawer, dresser, or nightstand at a time," Weiss says. Empty. Once you have decided on the area to tackle, empty the entire space. Taking one item at a time, decide what to keep, what to donate, and what to throw away. Categorize. After you’ve cleared out your items, categorize everything by type. You might have a pile of books you want to read, personal care items you like to keep in your bedroom, and clothes you keep in your dresser. And finally the living area ! The living room often houses a lot of different items, which can make decluttering a challenge. But sticking to categories and doing decluttering in small doses can make the job manageable. This is one of the key areas of the "declutter your home" project! Choose a micro-area. Weiss is a proponent of choosing smaller spaces to declutter one at a time, and the living room is no exception. “Start with a micro-area like a bookshelf, an entire bookcase, or a piece of furniture in the living room. Starting small will help you avoid burnout,” she says. Create a blank canvas. Once you've chosen an area to tackle, empty it. For example, Weiss says, "Start the living room decluttering process by clearing away bookshelves and entertainment centers, creating a blank canvas for your newly decluttered space." Decide what to keep. Now it’s time to address what you’ve emptied. “Think through your decorative items, books, and electronics, sorting them into piles to keep, donate, or discard,” Weiss says. Be sure to prepare the space or bins for each category before you begin. Work item by item, deciding what stays and what goes. Classify and organize. After assessing your living room items, Weiss recommends, “Categorise the remaining items and assign them to specific areas. Try to place items strategically. For example, keep TV remotes near the couch so they’re easy to find and put away when you’re watching TV.” This type of strategic placement of items not only makes living room activities flow more smoothly, but it also helps keep the newly decluttered space clutter-free. What do we do with what we have left?! Decluttering your space feels amazing. Each area you’ve tackled feels more functional and contains only the things you need and love, and just looking at it makes you feel at peace. But don’t stop there! Make sure you address the clutter you’ve removed so it doesn’t become clutter elsewhere in your home. After you’ve decluttered your space (ASAP!), decide what to do with the clutter you’ve eliminated. Sell. You can make some money by selling items you no longer need or want. Just be careful that the items you plan to sell don’t become another source of clutter and stress. List your items as early as possible and set a deadline for donating if the items haven’t sold. Apps and sites like Poshmark, Mercari, eBay, and ThreadUp make the process easy. Local options like Facebook Marketplace are great for larger items or if you want to avoid shipping. Decluttering also means giving. “Donating is a great way to give your items a new life and allow someone else to enjoy them as much as you did,” Jones says. “It’s always helpful to have a list of charities you’re passionate about, especially if they accept clothing and household goods donations, like Goodwill, the Salvation Army, or Habitat for Humanity ReStore.” Recycle. Before you throw your discarded items in the trash, check to see if there’s anything that can be recycled. For example, “old clothes can be recycled through clothing and textile recycling companies,” Weiss says.
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